2014 Mandan Team Rules
1. A $75.00 entry fee shall be paid by each driver, or $300 per 4-car team (allows only driver into pits).
2. Deadline to register for the Team Event May 1, 2014.
3. This year every pit-man and anyone else wanting into the pits will have to pay (no passes with driver or car).
4. Only driver shall be allowed in arena after the derby has started.
5. All drivers must remain in their car after their car is eliminated until contest is over.
6. All contestants must sign waiver before participating in the derby.
7. After second fire, car is eliminated.
8. No one will be pulled off of the dirt berm during the event.
9. Only the last two cars running will be pulled apart to determine places.
10. Gates open at 8:00 a.m. ALL CARS MUST BE INSPECTED BY 2:00 P.M. SO GET HERE EARLY!!
11. Pit meeting at 3:00 p.m.
12. Derby starts at 4:00 p.m.
13. Any cars not inspected by 2:00, or if the cars do not pass inspection, will forego their entry fee and not get to participate. BE EARLY!
***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!! At 60 minute mark of A feature $250 will be deducted from 1st&2nd places every 10 minutes and given to most aggressive team in the A. If an odd number of teams pass tech we will run a 3 team heat taking 1 team to A.
All rules will be followed, or you will not run!!
Any 4 cars can be run. Except pre 70 Lincolns, 1973 or Older Imperials, Imperial sub-frames, 03 and newer, ambulances, hearses, limousines, etc… or their frames
Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip.
The person that signs in as the driver - must be the driver for that event!
Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection.
ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
NO sandbagging. You will be disqualified!!!
You are given 1 minute for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts or 1 minute if you are hung up.
No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out.
Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!!
Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Call for frame rust repair questions. If we have not talked about it, it will not run!!
All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
RIMS NO BIGGER THAN 16, 3/8 thick WELD IN CENTERS. No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event.
Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have full faced helmets.
You must run a stock type radiator in factory position.
All cars must have working brakes.
All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be bolted to sheet metal only not frame!
Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. Battery must be in a Battery Box and bolted to sheet metal only!
All team cars must be painted alike and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car, no excessive washers!!
Only the Outside of Doors and trunk seam may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/ wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/ wires. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only, SAME THICKNESS. Two inches past rust hole, Leave the rust in place and repair over it.
For safety, You MUST have 2 bars in windshield from roof to cowel for safety reasons must be a minimum of 5" outside of Dist. cap protector if running one. Must be a minimum of 2" of space between front window bar, rear window bars, halo & roof sign.
Rear window bar and front windshield bars can be 2”-1/4 thick square, round, or flat material max. with a plate size no larger than 5 x5 x1/4" thick, and must be welded within 5” of window track. Any metal beyond 5” of window track front or rear will be cut!
** Hardtop no-post cars may have another strap at the center post.
You are allowed 2 locations with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop 3/8” cable in each window opening and may go down and attach to the frame or body mount plate. No welding washers around holes on car body. Cannot be attached to cage at all but may go over cage. 6” turnbuckle max if using cable.
You are NOT allowed to bolt, or weld any Factory body seams together, must remain stock!
Radiator core support may be moved back but must remain stock with no welded seams.
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 8-3/8” bolts or less, threads must be pointed in or cut off access of threads. You are allowed 4-3/8”extra bolts on front fenders to wrap fenders around core support
Body shaping/creasing can be done no added material.
FUEL TANK AND PROTECTOR
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell 11 gal. max. and it must be properly secured (no ratchet straps or bungees to hold the tank in place) and covered with nonflammable material. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Place fuel tank behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. If tank is mounted to the cage it must be at least 6" from floor and 1” from rear seat vertical sheet metal. Tank must be bolted to body sheet metal only not to frame if bolted to floor!
***12. Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal (DO NOT POUND SHEET METAL). This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector and floor, one or the other. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but seat bar!
FRAME AND CAGE
You can weld frame seams from the fire wall body bolts forward! No other frame seam welding allowed. The frame seam weld can't be larger than 1/2" wide or it will be cut!! TIPPING is allowed. May shorten front frame rails, this is the only body bolt you may relocate!! Frame shaping is allowed with no added material. Must remain stock unless outlined in the rules! We reserve the right to drill a 1/2" hole in frame to scope. No painting, or undercoating of frames, OR USE OF CHEMICALS!! Car will NOT BE INSPECTED
IF CAUGHT WITH ANY FRAME INFRACTIONS: PINNING,
PLATING, EXTRA SEAM WELDING, ADDED BODY BOLTS, ADDED
MATERIAL, GUSSETS, ECT. OR ANYTHING ELSE U CAN THINK OF
NOT OUTLINED IN RULES U WILL HAVE NO CHANCE TO FIX, U
WILL BE AUTO-MATICLY LOADED WITH NO REFUNDS!!! NO UNAUTHORIZED FRAME REPAIRS ALLOWED. Call on how to repair rust holes in frames.
You may run wire or 3/8 chain from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go AROUND the frame or you may weld 1 link to side of frame, this cannot to be bolted through the frame.
**For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash (must be 6" min. away from center of firewall and 4” off of tranny tunnel), You can weld 2 straps from the dash bar to the
firewall, must be on top side of cowl & dash bar, 3” BY 1/4 FLAT.
You may connect the dash bar to seat bar across the inside of front doors, You may have a roll loop behind the seat, or attached to seat bar which must be welded to the floor or top of frame, 3x3 max and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of driver’s seat. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the driver’s side going down from the inside cross bar. Also allowed 2 down bars on the passenger's side to floor or to the frame 2x2 max top of frame only. Outside or inside of drivers door only, can be reinforced not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. . You may also weld your
steering column in. (6" maximum diameter on all cage material, ALL CAGE MATERIAL MUST BE A MINIMUM OF 8" FROM FLOOR. TRANS TUNNEL MUST HAVE MIN OF 4” FROM DASH BAR!!
1. Loaded and seam welded bumpers allowed. Stock appearing bumpers from the front!!! We will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like up to 5 inch max depth material to the inside of the bumper chrome skin, weld the chrome skin back into place.
Metal inside of the bumper must fit the contour of the stock outer chrome! No changing angles of skin!
Any Automotive bumper brackets may be used on any car or may use ¼ thick- 5 inch wide home-made plate for bracket. Whichever one you use must stop at the front upper a arm factory mounting tab. (Only 1 set of brackets may be used). When welding bumpers to the
shocks and brackets – Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off! Bumper height max 28" to the top of the bumper, rear frame rails bottom or bottom of bumper (lowest point)must be minimum of 14 inches to ground. Chrysler “Y” frame cars will be allowed to weld a 5”x9”x ¼” plate on the top or bottom of the “Y” opening. No bumper brackets will be allowed if the plate is used. Or can collapse y and weld top seam only and use bracket rule.
2. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck to bumper. You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations.
1. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. 2 6” inspection holes in trunk lid. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood/trunk skins back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread, 2 may be used from the hood down to the frame (must go through the front body mounts.) You may weld the core support spacer to either core support or frame not both. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame welded with no added material. Front Rods may pass through frame. All remaining 6 hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal 8” max length. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5"x5"x1/4". Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location
4 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, can go through body mount hole or can be welded to the side of the frame. All-thread must be vertical. Top trunk lid seams may be welded solid,(use body welding specs) or unlimited bolting with no bigger than 3/8 bolts If you tuck the trunk you get either 12” of weld or 6 bolts to fasten tuck to floor pan.
Body spacing between body and frame must have ¾ spacer between body and frame, ¾ x 3 inch max. Diameter spacer. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame (no longer than 5"). Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset! If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount. Body bolts, spacers and washers must be free floating.
Tie-rods ends must be stock automotive, but the center can be re-enforced.
You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, any automotive replacement ball joint can be welded in, etc.
Leaf springs must be stock 5/16” or thinner you are allowed to build a 5x5 shackle box, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring (9 leaf maximum), you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. Leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You can loop chain or wire from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used.
Factory leafed cars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted. No leaf spring conversions allowed for old iron.
Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. (Homemade ok.)
Use rear end of choice, must be 5 lug. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended,
Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybrid rear-ends are allowed. But be stock appearing. Rear end brace cannot extend more than 6 inches off the stock housing.
*****6. Front A-arms may be bolted, pinned through center of a-arm, chained or welded down to get your bumper height. (Welding)- 2 straps ¼ thick 2”x4”.
2. SUSPENSION AND FRAME for 1978 & Newer GM and 80 & Newer Ford cars running with the old iron:
80s only: you are allowed a 1/4" thick by 22" long hump plate, this must follow the contour of the hump, centered and welded with one pass of 1/4" weld. This plate must be welded to the outside only, no plug welding, must match the factory hump and not span the center of the hump. Do not weld any seams on the rear of the car!
You may leaf convert any 80s car. 5x5 shackle boxes on the bottom side of the frame. Must follow all other leaf rules. Watts’s link conversions are allowed. - Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of 4 – 1/2“ bolts each side. No positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location. U are allowed 12 inches max. per side to weld a 80s ford factory lower trailing arm mount to frame or aftermarket pieces for lower trailing arm conversion.
All full-size k-frame MOPARS may bolt the k-frame with ¾ spacers between rails and k-frame and weld them together with no more than three 4"x4"x1/4" plates per side..
ENGINE MOUNTING- PROTECTOR RESTRICTIONS
Engine mounts may be welded to frame engine cradle.
Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. Cannot use firewall as a brace to stop car from bending. All cars must use stock engine cradles for the year of the car.
You may have 2 flat straps 2” wide ¼ max thick from the front of motor head to top side of frame next to A-arm- must be directly to frame not angled for leverage and can be welded with 2”width of strap with 2” of length! NO MORE!! If over or straps will be cut completely off frame!!
You may have a transmission protector. Braces along the side & on top side of trans. Brace material can‘t be bigger than 1”x1”, The braces must be attached to tail housing and bell housing only. Cross-member can constructed of 3 x 2 tubing max with 2x2- 6 inches long ¼ thick max. angle iron mounts welded to frame to hold cross-member. Cross-member must be perpendicular to the frame rails with no kickers. If you run the aftermarket cross member factory one must be removed. If you run a tranny protector you are NOT allowed to bolt tranny/tranny brace to cross member only chain or wire it. Skid plate allowed.
No re-enforcing, or welding on trans tunnel!! Must remain stock.
Dist. Cap Protector is allowed only with firewall cut out for DP to pass through. Cannot strengthen car. There must be 6 inches of clearance between the Dist. Cap protector and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame or cage. Dist. Cap Protector CAN NOT touch the cage, front window bars, hood pins at all, or car will be DQed! Hole has to be cut in the firewall large enough for the Dist. Cap Protector to pass through, cut hole in firewall 2 inch wider and down to where tranny tunnel meets fire wall up. If touching after show cause for DQ. If you are running a midplate you must cut a 14” wide hole in fire wall from cowl down to where tranny tunnel meets fire wall.
BUILD TO THE RULES!!!!!!!!!!! YOU WILL HAVE ONLY ONE CHANCE TO MAKE CHANGES TO PASS TECH, MAKE SURE U KNOW EXACTLY WHAT IS NEEDED CORRECTED IF U CANT PASS TECH FIRST ROUND.
Any question contact Jesse (507)430-1253. If no answer leave a message and I will get back to you. Out of respect for my family no calls after 10pm please. Thanks