2016 Mandan Team Car Rules

General Rules
***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!! At 60 minute mark of A-feature $250 will be deducted from 1st&2nd places every 10 minutes and given to most aggressive team in the A. If an odd number of teams pass tech we will run a 3 team heat taking 1 team to A.
• All rules will be followed, or you will not run!!
• Any 4 cars can be run. Except pre 70 Suicide Lincolns, 1973 or Older Imperials, Imperial sub-frames, 03 and newer, ambulances, hearses, limousines, etc…or their frames
• Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip.
• The person that signs in as the driver - must be the driver for that event!
• Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection.
• ALL drivers and crew members must attend the drivers meeting.
• DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
• No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
• Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
• NO sandbagging. You will be disqualified!!!
• You are given 1 minute for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts or 1 minute if you are hung up.
• No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
• Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out.
• Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
• Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!!
• Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
• No radio communication between drivers, AUTOMATIC DISQUALIFICATION.
• Repair plates will be sold in the sign in shed. You must buy your teams plates at time of sign in if you want to use plates. There will be specific instructions posted with plates.

Team Cars
• All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
• All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
• RIMS NO BIGGER THAN 16, 3/8 thick WELD IN CENTERS. No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
• Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event.
• Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have full faced helmets.
• You must run a stock type radiator in factory position. No radi-barrels.
• All cars must have working brakes. If your car can’t stop it will not run.
• All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
• You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
• Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be bolted to sheet metal only not frame!
• Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. Battery must be in a Battery Box and bolted to sheet metal only!
• All team cars must be painted alike to compete and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

• Only the Outside of Doors and trunk seam may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/ wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/ wires. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only, SAME THICKNESS. If you choose to use thicker repair patches you will not get a chance to fix. You will be loaded!! Two inches past rust hole, Leave the rust in place and repair over it.
• For safety, you MUST have 2 bars in windshield from roof to cowl. ( Window Bar Size 3/8”x 3” x 32” Flat Strap ONLY) There must be a minimum 16" between Window bars and must be a minimum of 2” away from any engine protector component. Maximum of 5” of WINDOW bar may be welded on cowl and roof. You cannot connect the 2 bars in any way.
• (2) Rear window bars can be 2”-1/4 thick square, round, or flat material max, with a plate size no larger than 5 x5 x1/4" thick, and must be welded within 5” of window track and only 5” on roof. Any metal beyond 5” of window track front or rear will be cut!
• On wagons the window bar must be within 5” of the top of tailgate and attached to tailgate only and must follow only 5” material on roof rule.
** Hardtop no-post cars may have another strap at the center post.
• You are allowed 2 locations with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop 3/8” cable in each window opening and may go down and attach to the frame or body mount plate. Cannot be attached to cage at all but may go over cage. 6” turnbuckle max if using cable.
• You are NOT allowed to bolt, or weld any Factory body seams together, must remain stock!
• Radiator core support may be moved back but must remain stock with no welded seams.
• You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 8-3/8” bolts or less. You are allowed 4-3/8”extra bolts on front fenders to wrap fenders around core support
• Body shaping/creasing can be done no added material. No Folding and welding body lines.
• No components inside car can be bolted/welded to floor and cage to strengthen car. If mounting battery box, gas tank, or transmission cooler to cage it must be mounted a minimum of 4” off floor. Maximum ½” Bolts and up to 3” washer for mounting components.
• Floor Mounted pedals must be spaced Minimum 1” from frame and body bolt plates. Pedals can be bolted to floor tin only. Do not bolt through frame or transmission cross-member.

• You can weld frame seams from the transmission cross-member forward! No other frame seam welding allowed. The frame seam weld can't be larger than 3/4" wide or it will be cut or ground!! TIPPING is allowed. May shorten front frame rails, this is the only body bolt you may relocate!! Frame shaping is allowed with no added material, (Transmission cross-member forward, and 24" on the rear humps). Must remain stock unless outlined in the rules!
• We reserve the right to drill a 1/2" hole in frame to scope. No painting, or undercoating of frames, OR USE OF CHEMICALS!! Car will NOT BE INSPECTED
• You may run wire or 3/8 chain from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go AROUND the frame or you may weld 1 link to side of frame, this cannot to be bolted through the frame.
• Factory K-Member cars can weld the K-member solid where they can achieve a bead with no filler metal.
You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
Bumpers and Brackets
Loaded and seam welded bumpers allowed. We will allow you to take any bumper apart and weld material you would like inside the bumper, weld the chrome skin back into place. Metal inside of the bumper must fit the contour of the stock outer chrome! No changing angles of skin!

Homemade Bumpers Allowed***
If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8”x8”. The point must taper over an area of at least 32” Overall the bumper cannot exceed 12” wide at the tip of the point. The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper.
Any Automotive bumper brackets may be used on any car or may use 3/8” thick- 5 inch wide home-made plate for bracket. Whichever bracket selection you use, it must stop at the front upper A-arm mounting tab. (Only 1 set of brackets may be used).
Bumper height max 28" to the top of the bumper, rear frame rails bottom or bottom of bumper (lowest point) must be minimum of 14 inches to ground. Chrysler “Y” frame cars will be allowed to weld a 5”x9”x ¼” plate on the top or bottom of the “Y” opening. No bumper brackets will be allowed if the plate is used or can collapse y and use bracket rule.
Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck to bumper. You can only have 1 of the 3, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed (2) 3" x 6" x 1/4" plates per frame rails to help hold bumpers on. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in (2) locations. Must go around core support and not around all thread.

6" maximum diameter on all cage material, ALL CAGE MATERIAL MUST BE A MINIMUM OF 8" FROM FLOOR. TRANSMISSION TUNNEL MUST BE MINIMUM OF 4” FROM DASH BAR!! If running a center of car bar from dash bar to seat bar must maintain 4” off of transmission tunnel.
Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter. Seat bar must be no further than 10" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contours!
Dash Bar must be minimum 6” from center of firewall and any engine protector component!
You may connect the dash bar to seat bar across the inside of front doors, You may have a roll loop behind the seat, or attached to seat bar which must be welded to the floor or top of frame, (2”x3” max Size welded to frame) and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of driver’s seat.
You will be allowed 2 down bars per side from the door bars to the top of the frame. Must be behind the front inside door seam to the floor or the top of frame vertical and perpendicular to frame. (2" x 3" MAX Down Bar Size)
Outside or inside of driver’s door only, can be reinforced not to exceed 6 inches past each seam.

Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a well-made fuel cell 11 gal. max (24” max width) and it must be properly secured (no ratchet straps or bungees to hold the tank in place) Place fuel tank behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. If tank is mounted to the cage it must be at least 6" from floor and 1” from rear seat vertical sheet metal. Tank must be bolted to body sheet metal only not to frame if bolted to floor!
Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal (DO NOT POUND SHEET METAL). This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector and floor, one or the other. You may run a tank halo protector up towards roof. Must stop 2” from roof. Cannot be connected to or come in contact with rear window bars. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but cage back seat bar!

Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. A 6” inspection hole in trunk lid is mandatory. You are allowed 12 - 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood/trunk skins back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may use up to 1” all thread. Core support all thread must be vertical and can be welded to the side of frame rail. (Max of 5” welded to side of frame). You may weld the core support spacer to core support and frame. Core support spacer 4”x4” max must only go from top of frame to bottom core support as per factory design.
Remaining 6 hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal, 8” max length. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5"x5"x1/4". Hood bolt plates can be welded to sheet metal.
You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location
4 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, can go through body mount hole or can be welded to the side of the frame. All-thread must be vertical. Top trunk lid seams may be welded solid,(use body welding specs) or unlimited bolting with no bigger than 3/8 bolts If you tuck the trunk you get either 12” of weld or 6 bolts to fasten tuck to floor pan.
If you remove you speaker deck you are allowed 6) 3”x4”x1/4” plates to attach the front seam of the deck lid to the floor pan over the rear end area of car.

Must have ¾ spacer between body and frame, ¾ x 3 inch max Diameter spacers. Body spacers can be tacked to frame with 2) ½” long welds per spacer max. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame (no longer than 5"). Body bolts and washers must be free floating.
If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount.

• Tie-rods ends must be stock automotive, but the center can be re-enforced.
• You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts,
• Any automotive replacement ball joint can be welded in, etc.
• You can run manufactured spindles. If fabricating your own spindle, No metal can be more than 2” from a factory design.
• No ball joint stops.

• Leaf springs must be stock 5/16” or thinner you are allowed to build a 5x5 shackle box, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring (9 leaf maximum), you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. Leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch.
• You can put twist in type spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. No homemade coil spring/coil spring pocket type spacers. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You can loop chain or wire from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used.
• Factory leafed cars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted. No leaf spring conversions allowed for old iron.
• Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. (Homemade are ok.)
• Use rear end of choice, must be 5, dual 5, or 8 lug.
• Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybrid rear-ends are allowed. But be stock appearing. Rear end brace cannot extend more than 6 inches off the stock housing.
*Front A-arms may be bolted, pinned or welded through center of a-arm and chained or welded down to get your bumper height. You are also allowed 2 straps 2”x4”x1/4” per A-arm. A-arm Mounts may be changed but must be done cleanly without any added material other than the mount itself.
****You are allowed a 1/4" thick by 22" long hump plate, this must follow the contour of the hump, centered and welded with one pass of 1/4" weld. This plate must be welded to the outside only, no plug welding, must match the factory hump and not span the center of the hump. Do not weld any seams on the rear of the car!

SUSPENSION AND FRAME for 1978 & Newer GM and 80 & Newer Ford cars running with the old iron:
You may leaf convert any 80s car. 5x5 shackle boxes on the bottom side of the frame. Must follow all other leaf rules. Watts’s link conversions are allowed.- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of 4 – 1/2“bolts each side. No positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location. U are allowed 12 inches max. Per side to weld a 80s ford factory lower trailing arm mount to frame or aftermarket pieces for lower trailing arm conversion.
All full-size k-frame MOPARS may bolt the k-frame with ¾ spacers between rails and k-frame and weld them together with no more than three 4"x4"x1/4" plates per side.

• Any engine may be used in any car, Full Engine Protectors Allowed. Pulley Protector May not extend more than 8”.
• Lower cradles must mount similar to a factory mount
• You may weld in additional supports from engine cradle to engine cross-member. (Maximum size material 3/8”x3” Flat) They may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place. Do not reinforce frame seams with motor mount, or supports. Motor Mounts and supports must be kept 2” from frame rail and seams.
• You are allowed (2) 8” x12” x ½” pieces of plate to assist in mounting your motor. This plate must be welded to top side of Engine Cross-member and can be gusseted on bottom side for support. Plate and Gussets may not contact frame rails at any point and must be minimum of 2” from frame.
• You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not crease, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the firewall/cowl in any way!
• You may have a transmission protector. Braces along the side & on top side of trans. Brace material can‘t be thicker than 1”. The braces must be attached to tail housing and bell housing only.
• Transmission Cross-member can constructed of 2” x 3” tubing max with 2x2x1/4”- 6 inch long angle iron mounts welded to frame to hold cross-member. Cross-member must be perpendicular to the frame rails with no kickers. If you run the aftermarket cross member factory one must be removed.
• Transmission Cross member can only be attached to 2 frame rails
• If running a transmission protector you may choose 1 method to hold to cross-member. Bolt, Chain, or Wire. Do Not Weld! Skid plates are NOT allowed. Transmission Pan Protectors are ok.
• No re-enforcing or welding on transmission tunnel!! Must remain stock.
Any question contact Jesse (507)430-1253. If no answer leave a message and I will get back to you. Out of respect for my family no calls after 10pm please. Thanks
Address: 2500 Longspur Trail Mandan ND 58554

Mailing Address: PO Box 6272 Bismarck, ND 58506

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